London Feeds Itself, a new book by Open City, is a scrumptious offering that connects food culture and architecture
published to mark the 30th anniversary of the city’s Open House Festival this September, an event that has now been significantly scaled back following the death of the Queen. is edited by Jonathan Nunn, the 33-year-old founder of the online magazine and weekly newsletter. Nunn’s newsletter and Instagram feed track his intake at food stalls and unassuming takeaways, at Algerian bakeries and Syrian cafés in the near suburbs .
No mere influencer, Nunn is a fine and sharp writer and he has argued that too much London food writing has the whiff of Victorian adventure and exploration, a kind of localised neo-colonialism with no effort made to frame food culture within the context of migration, displacement and gentrification. The book gives Nunn the chance to address those failings and he does it powerfully.
connects the city’s vernacular food culture not just to its people but its architecture. Nunn pulls together 25 essays about 25 buildings, places and public amenities, warehouses, parks, church halls, mosques, community centres, baths and allotments, with contributions from food writers, architecture writers and activists, including former Labour Party leader Jeremy Corbyn and broadcaster Aditya Chakrabortty, as well as 125 ‘capsule’ restaurant reviews.
Unsurprisingly, Nunn also rails against the homogeneity of much of London’s more smartly packaged street food stalls and markets, increasingly weaponised by property developers, and laments the rise of a London ‘where working-class markets are shut, replaced with cookie-cutter street food placed on pseudo-public property; where food production is being shunted to its peripheries or out of the city altogether; where community centres are shutting and food banks are rising; where new restaurants...
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