The glorious Burmese tea-leaf salad is the colour of Fozzie Bear and army-surplus combat pants
. But this repurposed nook of Covent Garden feels brazenly unbothered by its place in the capital, because the Yards could really be anywhere: a mall in Dubai, say, the Newcastle Metro Centre or one of those faceless retail strips featuring aLahpet’s fritter starters – Shan tofu, split pea, sweetcorn and shallot – with a tamarind dip. and a contemporary take on, a traditional rice-noodle fish soup, which here is delightfully spicy .
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