Felipe Oliveira Baptista's debut collection for Kenzo was all about wanderlust, though the concept of shelter came hand-in-hand.
These are tough times for the travel industry. With the coronavirus outbreak severely curtailing air traffic, many people are opting to stay at home. Suddenly, even the trusty student ritual of backpacking across the planet is looking less alluring.
Cloaks, capes, cowls and caps shielded his models from the bright sunlight raising temperatures inside the plastic tubular tent set up in the garden of the National Institute for Deaf Children. The venue felt like an apt metaphor for conflicting urges: wanting to be out in the world, yet protected from its dangers.
Working an Eighties sportswear sensibility, Baptista layered somber tonal looks with protective details: blankets worn under hats, utility belt bags and flyaway neckties. He used zips to release the volume on fluted skirts or to play with the hemline of a patterned parka.
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