These days, a generation that watched a grandparent or uncle casually cook up šljiva at home is fine-tuning the recipe and turning the age-old craft into a modern business.
he Rakija Museum is only 15 miles from the center of Belgrade, but it can take an hour to get there if your taxi driver hasn’t been there before. It’s up a network of roads that are so narrow and hilly and unmarked that at some points, Google Maps can’t even be bothered. Occasionally you’ll pass a tractor or a fruit stand, but for the most part, the landscape looks the same as it did 100 years ago.
Sljivovica, the most common rakija, is distilled from plums, one of Serbia’s main exports, and it’s so integral to the local culture that in December it was inscribed on. But rakija can also be made from quince, pear, apricot, apple, or even grapes. Ask anyone about it—young or old—and they’ll tell you about the person in their family who makes it on an improvised still in their kitchen.
Rakija is distilled and drunk throughout the Balkans, but most experts—and, of course, Serbians—agree that it originated in Serbia, where it’s been made since at least the 15th century. That’s the museum’s claim, too. Among many vintage bottles, it features the original 1909 patent for a rakija still, the first patent ever awarded by the newly opened patent office of the nation, which was then known as the Kingdom of Serbs, Croats and Slovenes.
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