It’s no secret that the history of fashion is laden with cultural appropriation—but in a changed world, designers are finding thoughtful new ways to spotlight work rooted in heritage and tradition.
One night a few months ago, I was scouring my usual list of secondhand websites—The RealReal, eBay, Grailed—when I spotted it: a vintage Jean Paul Gaultier top plastered with imagery of cowboys and Native Americans.It’s certainly not the first time I’ve seen my Indigenous culture reduced to a kind of gimmick.
“Appropriation is when you turn something into a costume—like wearing a qipao with chopsticks in your hair,” says Chinese American designer Kim Shui, who incorporates qipao-style collars into her own pieces but has seen other designers plagiarize the style—as well as larger brands pigeonhole entire vast, kaleidoscopic cultures into one specific look and co-opting it. “It’s not coming from a genuine place.
Why would I willingly spend money on items that I have no intention of wearing? It’s simple: Because purchasing them takes them off the market. They also—by spotlighting an era in fashion that left a lot to be desired in terms of inclusivity—have a historical value. “Back in the day, there were so many Chinese-inspired collections or geisha costumes,” says Shui, nodding to the 1990s and 2000s, when the runways were particularly rife with appropriation.
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