The crustaceans, non-native and fierce, are taking over the Gulf of Maine. Could eating them help draw down the population?
, at least 64 invasions have been documented in the Gulf, with more anticipated and possibly many others unaccounted for.
On the shore at the count, McMahan sets her sights on a cluster of rocks dense with seaweed, tosses the quad, and carefully navigates her way over to where it lands. She gently starts parting the knotted wrack inside the quad, exposing the barnacled rock beneath it, and methodically running her fingers over rock and seaweed. “There’s one!” she says, and detangles a grasping crab the size of a bottle cap from the briny thicket.
Then there’s the issue of regulations. Currently, there are none for fishing green crabs, but they could be required if it becomes a profitable fishery. Mike Masi, co-founder of Southern Maine Sustainable Shellfish, harvests green crabs with traps under a lobster and crab license so that he can sell them commercially. The former high school marine biology teacher started a small green crab operation that evolved out of one of his class projects; he sustains it with the help of former students.
There are green crab markets abroad, which is affirming, and the potential for a fishery does seem high. But critics say that eating invasive species is not an effective tool for culling them and will only spread the populations to different regions.Both land and sea offer up invaders for consumption—a practice called invasivorism—though some are a tougher sell than others.
Green crabs are best when their shells are soft. At any phase of their lives they make an excellent base for stock, which Waks Adams is particularly enthusiastic about, and can be used to make a condiment akin to a fish sauce. In the restaurants Masi supplies with crabs, soft-shell green crabs are fried and served as sliders.
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