As London Fashion Week arrives, here’s our insider’s tour of ‘Rebel: 30 Years of London Fashion’ at the Design Museum, which celebrates the British Fashion Council’s career-starting Newgen scheme
In 1993, the UK was in the depths of a brutal recession. Unemployment was high, the economy was stagnant, and the city’s creative institutions were suffering. With London Fashion Week reduced to a smattering of shows that year, the British Fashion Council decided to throw the city’s young designers a lifeline: inviting them to present their collections on clothing rails at The Ritz.
A vast collection of designs, video footage and ephemera is thoughtfully grouped in its rooms, which tell the stories of the young minds who have transformed contemporary British fashion through raw explorations of identity, calls for social change and sustainable innovation. As the exhibition notes state, these are makers who have ‘predicted new ways to dress, and new ways to be’.
Elsewhere, the show displays a look from a Craig Green collection which reduced an entire audience to tears; a specially commissioned film directed by Priya Ahluwalia that documents how five designers grew their brands from bedrooms into businesses; and a booming club room in which archival footage from parties and underground raves plays on loop, recognising the immense influence of music and nightlife on London fashion.
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