Daily News | In Philly’s booming birria scene, Mi Pueblito and Juana Tamale are stand-outs
, but quickly realized she needed the bigger draw of birria to regularly bring customers to her previous pop-up space at Underground Arts.brass band to add appropriate fanfare to her first birria event in April 2020 — and she’s never looked back. It’s been so popular Zavala and her husband, Chris Feher,
Settling into the day-to-day rhythms of her first steady restaurant work since leaving El Camino Real 13 years ago has not been easy for the restless Zavala. She’s cited staffing issues and the ebbs and flows of business during a pandemic — versus the reliable buzz of a once-a-week pop-up — for the occasional feeling “that I’m suffocating.”
All the doubts on the particular day of our phone conversation, it seemed, stemmed from an off-batch of consommé made by an employee she’s been teaching. It needed to be corrected for intensity. Other days it has shown more of a vinegar tang than a broth of this richness needs. When it’s on point, Zavala’s birria tacos, which get dipped in a chile-infused oil before roasting on the griddle, have a tenderness, crackling snap and complexity that’s up there with the best, plus a heft that makes the $21 price for three a fair bargain.
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