At Molino el Pujol, the freshly made tortillas are out of this world.
in New York. But despite its sleek design and international pedigree, Molino el Pujol is one of the most traditional expressions of Mexican food there is: a humble tortilleria.
Inside, customers line up at the counter to place their orders. Staffers in crisp white uniforms and white pointed chef’s caps dart to and fro. The walls are lined with handmade white tiles meant to resemble corn kernels and a black letter board lists the shop’s offerings: taco, tamal, elote, frijoles de olla, salsa miltomate.
By instilling such a high level of care into something as simple as a tortilleria, Olvera hopes to honor his community and highlight the backbone of Mexican cuisine. He’s also addressing one of Mexico City’s more contemporary problems: Traditional tortillerias are disappearing.and price controls on tortillas. Affordability became an issue for both producers and consumers, and many independently-owned tortillerias were forced to close.
dedicated to improving the lives and livelihoods of small-scale Mexican corn farmers. “We buy the surplus from the communities because we don’t want to deprive them of their own corn,” Olvera explains. “We buy whatever they want to sell.”has reached sweltering levels. It’s the hottest day in Mexico City since 1919, and a confluence of electric machines compounds the heat. But the staffers are unperturbed.
“We’re not creating anything new,” says Olvera. “We’re just working the exact same way that a normal tortilleria would work.” Yet it’s easy to taste the difference between Molino el Pujol’s tortillas and those you’ll find on grocery store shelves. There’s an unmistakable creaminess despite the fact that they contain nothing but corn, calcium, and water. One of my dining companions asks with sincerity if there’s lard in the dough and gets a laugh from the kitchen staff.
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