If you must only eat one burrito, make it the cheesy chile relleno.
I’ve dutifully followed this advice every Friday night since I first overheard it from a bartender at, my regular watering hole in Las Cruces, New Mexico, where I moved last fall. She was referring to the chile reyano burrito from Tacos Romero, a Mexican food truck parked indefinitely by the Ranch’s sprawling beer garden.
According to her son, Nellie Hernandez gently folds fluffed-up egg whites into whisked yolks before dipping each roasted green chile that she hand-fills with Muenster or asadero cheese. After a light flour dredge, the chiles are eased into iron skillets to shallow-fry until golden outside and molten inside.
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