At a time when conversations about race, gender and sexuality were taboo, the Mississippi-born designer put them fearlessly on the runway
Although Kelly made you look, he didn’t explain. He simply started the conversation by refusing to go along with the status quo. It began with a simple observation at the age of six, when his grandmother Ethel B Rainey showed him a fashion magazine she brought home from her white employer. He immediately noticed there were no Black people in it. After Rainey explained, “Nobody has time to design for them,” Kelly announced his plan to become a fashion designer.
At the time, Kelly was living in a small apartment that he had obtained while briefly working with Paco Rabanne. “Patrick had a portable sewing machine and fabric on the bed. I later found out one didn’t sleep in the bed as long as there was fabric on it, which meant there was work to be done. He was working non-stop,” says Amelan.
Using wit and warmth, Kelly reclaimed racist tropes like golliwogs, mammy dolls and Sambo figurines after Amelan unwittingly bought him one as a birthday gift. “I knew about racism in America but I did not realise how loaded with negativity those objects were,” recalls Amelan. “Instead of reading me the riot act, Patrick said, ‘We will start collecting these,’ but he never explained the history of the object.
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