In an interview from 2020, the chef Samin Nosrat talked about fame, veganism, depression, and how to write a great cookbook.
of the same name débuted a year later; it’s a four-episode travelogue in which Nosrat explores each of the book’s central topics in situ—learning about salt in Japan, acid in Mexico, fat in Italy, and heat back home, in California. When the show was released, it felt like everyone with a Netflix log-in fell in love with Nosrat all at once: her disarming grin, her unselfconscious enthusiasm, the way she threw herself so exuberantly into the sensory pleasures of both making and eating food.
It has. I very much feel now like I’m the product. It’s a weird thing to come to terms with. It’s been important for me to learn how to trust that what an audience wants is just me being me, that who I really am is something that they can relate to. It requires that I be very honest about whatever it is that I’m saying, that I really mean it.
At the end of last year, the beginning of this year, all of what’s been happening with America and Iran—it was really hard for me. Last year, I did a big feature for the, and we had such a wonderful and positive reaction to it. But then, well, it turns out that people can like our food and still want to bomb us.
Or a tool! I didn’t know this until recently, when I was doing research for something, but there is a reason that beans are often cooked in ceramic pots. It turns out that a lot of ceramic cooking pots are slightly alkaline, and that alkalinity is what makes bean skins tender—that’s why I typically add a pinch of baking soda when I make beans. But it turns out that bean pots make good beans because there is alkalinity in the clay. It’s amazing. Someone figured it out along the way.
I’ve been thinking about this a lot, actually. I just recently was in Oaxaca, and at first I was really disturbed by what appeared to me to be a reorientation of local tradition to appeal to a very particular and very narrow American audience.about this idea of “airspace”? I’ve been noticing that, over the last few years, in my travels, there is this very specific type of café, a very clear visual shorthand for “Hello, we serve a certain audience in this establishment.
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