Fashion brands this fall are proposing black-and-white prints like those Peggy Moffitt wore in the 1960s. “The uncertain times we’re living in make the definitiveness of black and white—and the lack of gray, if you will—a psychologically appealing choice.”
is a pretty loaded palette. Good and evil, birth and death, virginity and “experience” are just a few of the weighty dichotomies this duo represents. Ask a creative conspiracy theorist and he might tell you monochrome patterns are secret symbols of the Illuminati.
I am not in the Illuminati but my décor and my wardrobe are predominantly black and white. For me, the opposing shades conjure alternate realities. Salvador Dalí placed chess boards in his uncanny paintings. Lewis Carroll’s Alice is often depicted as landing on a black-and-white floor after falling down the rabbit hole. During the dark days of lockdown, I invested in a Wonderland-worthy checked rug for my foyer as a form of surreal escape.
If new carpeting is not in your future, you might find William Klein’s 1966 film “Who Are You, Polly Maggoo?”—an absurdist fashion satire filled with black-and-white style—equally transporting. In one of my favorite scenes, American model Peggy Moffitt cameos as an unapologetically exasperated mannequin. In a group of lookalikes, Ms. Moffitt stands out thanks to her entrancing, densely lined eyes—two supernovas being swallowed by black holes.
Ms. Moffitt helped define the mod, op-art-infused aesthetic of the Youthquake era. And today, the graphic black-and-white prints and stark color-blocking in which she often posed have resurged, populating the collections of Chanel, Marc Jacobs, Victor Glemaud and Valentino, to name a few.
For Wes Gordon, creative director of Carolina Herrera, the contrasting polka-dots and zebra prints in his pre-fall and fall collections connote a Youthquake-era optimism—something he found appealing while designing during the “bleak” lockdown. His 1960s inspirations, he said, represented a new generation announcing “its presence with graphic, bold clothes that were underlined, circled and marked with an exclamation point.
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