Chef-owner Sopon Kosalanan of Khao Kang in Queens, NY showed us how to do it at home.
The moment you open the door to Khao Kang, you know you’re in the company of people who take their food seriously. Aromas of fish sauce, coconut, and prickly herbs hit you in concussive bursts.
, I had no idea the kitchen made its own from scratch. Very few American Thai restaurants do—it’s simply too costly and labor intensive to meet customer demand, and besides, expecting housemade curry paste at your average Thai restaurant is like demanding that an Italian joint forego canned tomatoes for fresh ones year-round. But if your top priority is vivid flavor, the kind of aromatic intensity that makes great Thai cooking so memorable, DIY is the way to go.
“You’re going to smell the herbs, the chile, the lemongrass, the galangal,” Kosalanan says. “If you get it from a can, I don’t feel like it’s green curry. It doesn’t have the same aromas. It’s just something that you cook in coconut milk.” Making curry paste from scratch also gives you the freedom to adjust the heat level to your own taste. While some of Khao Kang’s kaengs—the Thai word for curry—are knock-you-over spicy, others exhibit only the slightest kick.
When Kosalanan arrived in the United States 17 years ago from the town of Chanthaburi, finding curry paste essentials like galangal and makrut limes was a tall order. These days, he says, it’s much easier. He and his mother, Tongtad Jarernnan, who is also the restaurant’s chef, use a network of local Thai markets, but they also mail-order produce from specialty growers in Florida to gather the supplies for Khao Kang’s popular green curry.
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