Best served fresh, with plenty of berries and cream.
Now it's seen as something of a retro throwback, but I think it's a shame chiffon ever went out of style. I'm all about obscenely rich and buttery cakes, but I also believe that desserts should always work in service of the meal. And when summer barbecues mean loading up on hamburgers, potato chips, and mac and cheese, there's something to be said for the lightness of chiffon.
To start, I make the meringue with the same left-of-center technique I call for in my recipe for angel food. I start by combining plain orwith the egg whites and vanilla extract up front. Then I whip the meringue in stages, adding salt and lemon juice along the way. Because of the batter's high moisture content, it's essential to use a low-protein all-purpose flour. My favorite all-purpose flour is Gold Medal, a blend of soft white wheat and hard red wheat that strikes the perfect balance of protein and starch for a light and tender cake. That said, any brand with a similar formula will work well, too.
Bake at 350°F until the cakes are puffed, golden brown, and firm to the touch, but with an outer crust that's still a little soft and puffy rather than dry; about 55 minutes for the tube pan, or 40 minutes for the eight-inch layers. To remove layer cakes from their pans, use an offset spatula to gently pry the cake away from the bottom of the pan, working bit by bit to loosen small sections at a time. Once you've made your way around the pan, the whole thing will fall out on its own when inverted; if it's stubborn, you can gently pull it out by hand.
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