Uncover the mystery behind the underrated Brooklyn cocktail. It's the elegant rye drink that's been in the shadows of its Manhattan cousin for too long. cocktails
The cocktail’s first bit of bad luck hits it just after it’s invented. The Brooklyn pops into existence in 1908 but takes its near-current form in Jacques Straub’s 1913 bookand dry vermouth, with a couple dashes of maraschino liqueur and of Amer Picon. Tragically, the question that America was asking at the time was not how to make the best drinks but instead whether drinking should be legal at all, and in 1919, Prohibition comes down like a meteor and clears the map.
The next blow to the cocktail came in the late ‘60s, when regulators at the FDA questioned whether their European counterparts were being too permissive with the use of a flowering herb called calamus. The FDA banned calamus outright in 1968, which is a bit of a problem because Amer Picon—the French herbal liqueur that gives the Brooklyn most of its charm—allegedly uses this herb in its recipe and was therefore unable to be imported.
Fast forward to the modern era, and again, everyone’s asking the wrong question of the Brooklyn. “In order to make Brooklyns we need Amer Picon,” say the purists, “so what’s the best Amer Picon substitute?” Picon is still available in Europe, sold for like €12 per liter at any French supermarket, so various cocktail professionals will offer their opinion of the best Picon clone.
The question many of these people seem to be asking is how to best imitate a liqueur that was discontinued 80 years ago that none of us have ever, or will ever, experience. With respect, I think this is the wrong question. I believe the question should be: What tastes best in a Brooklyn?that take two months to make and produce more than a gallon of liquid.
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