Wages are up — but not enough to comfortably live in America’s most expensive cities
On the ground with the future leaders of the restaurant world
There was little pleasure for Valerie Biega in her pre-work coffee routine. The caffeine, rather, was what fueled her to push through each shift as a cook at a popular fried chicken restaurant in Brooklyn.
At $13 an hour for 45 to 55 hours a week, Biega didn’t have too much to show financially for her labor. She estimates that upward of 40 percent of her monthly income went to rent, another 20 percent each for her private health insurance and transportation, and another chunk covered her phone bill. Even though her food costs were minimal, Biega says there wasn’t much she could afford to do aside from binge Netflix and recover until the work cycle began anew.
“It took a little while to realize that while I was doing what I wanted to do — cooking in the big city,” says Biega, now a sous chef in Toronto, “basically I was living to work.”and Bobby Flay’s smug grin, Biega’s reality is an all-too-familiar truth: Cooks and chefs today grind their bodies and minds to ensure the comfort of others, but such work rarely provides the means to sustain their own lives.
More than a decade since the Great Recession, back-of-house jobs are still very much in demand. Thanks to a seemingly endless cycle of booming restaurant sales ($863 billion
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