How Mark Bittman Created His Most Famous Cookbook

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How Mark Bittman Created His Most Famous Cookbook
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“At one point, his publisher even considered killing the project. Luckily, they didn’t.”

At one point, his publisher even considered killing the project. Luckily, they didn’t—the first run of 50,000 copies sold out nearly instantaneously, and the book went on to win a slew of awards . Here, Bittman shares how he created a new classic.

It was a complicated time in the mid 1990's; there was lots of consolidation in publishing. At that time, Macmillan owned, and then sold the rights. The guy in charge said to my editor, “What was that big book we used to have? We should do another book, something like that.” Pam Hoenig at Macmillan called me and asked if I wanted to do something likewas done—at that time, there were lots of people involved. I wanted to do it my way. And we did.

I had been cooking for a long time, so I just tackled it. I’d wake up every morning—really early—and write recipes. I’d cook for my kids, write more recipes, make lunch for my wife and me, then I’d write more recipes and cook more stuff. This went on for three to four years and five editors! I ended up with this enormous manuscript.

We had this huge manuscript, and I really didn’t know what to do with it. I told her that we needed another editor on board to help me with it, and we needed to delay publishing by six months. Jack Bishop from Boston Common Press and I worked together on the manuscript for another six months. It was a very collaborative effort—as every book project is. Jennifer, Jack, and I came up with even more variations and illustrations.

Everyone hates their book after they finish it, and I was like, everyone is going to think I’m a fool! "How to Cook Everything"…are you kidding? But it worked. It immediately sold out; everyone was completely caught by surprise. It was like a hit Broadway show. It came out right before Christmas, just when Amazon was taking off; we printed 50,000 copes and it sold out.

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