The costume designer discusses her work outfitting stars Lily James and Sebastian Stan for the new Hulu series.
WWD: Where did your research process begin for “Pam & Tommy”?I read the article [that the show was based on], read the script. I also am from Southern California; I lived in L.A. during that time. So it was a lot of resources from my own photos and looking through those, but then also doing a deep dive for those two characters [Pamela and Tommy] specifically. What you have in your memory is usually different than what you find online.
Pam was at the height of her career. “Baywatch” was taking off, she had this film, “Barb Wire,” all this stuff. So I really wanted to capture her in that moment, but we also do some flashbacks to when she started out with Playboy. I wanted to make sure I understood that completely, the progression. I also did a fantasy board where, when I think about a character, I really want to know where their inspiration is coming from. I try to get into their minds.
WWD: In terms of sourcing, did you pull from vintage looks, or search for contemporary looks that you could piece together to reflect the time period?When I do period work, I tend to shy away from anything modern or on-the-rack. Because there’s something about bringing in actual pieces and cuts that were made at that time to retell a story. And for Pam, it was important to find ’90s dresses.
WWD: The characters are often wearing very little, particularly Tommy with his thong looks. How do you approach costuming when the actual costume is so minimal?There’s definitely challenges there because we couldn’t just buy any thong and put it on him. We had a prosthetic to deal with. So those were all custom made. We picked fabric that we thought someone in rock ‘n’ roll would wear at that time.
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