How Jacqueline Durran Went From Selling Vintage Post-Grad to Winning an Oscar for Costume Design

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How Jacqueline Durran Went From Selling Vintage Post-Grad to Winning an Oscar for Costume Design
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She just received her seventh — yes, seventh — Academy Award nomination for 'Little Women.'

She just received her seventh — yes, seventh — Academy Award nomination for "Little Women."Author:Fawnia Soo HooUpdated:Feb 3, 2020Original:Feb 3, 2020In our long-running series "How I'm Making It," we talk to people making a living in the fashion and beauty industries about how they broke in and found success.

While she graduated from the Royal College of Art, Durran didn't formally study costume or fashion design. Rather, she learned on the job, working from the ground up.

I got the job because I was able to date clothes in the 20th century. When I left university, I had a market stall selling vintage clothes at Camden and Portobello Road markets. I was always very interested in buying vintage clothes and making clothes and thinking about style. But I was never thinking that it was going to be a career. I got the job at a junior level working at a costume house.

I worked with and learned a lot from Lindy Hemming. Then after I had been working with her for quite few years, she was approached by director Mike Leigh to do a film with him. She wasn't able to do it, so she said to me, 'I think you should do it.' I was really apprehensive about this and I didn't necessarily think I was going to be a designer. I was quite happy carrying on being an assistant, but she said, 'I think you should do it.

The green dress you designed for Keira Knightley's character in Joe Wright's 'Atonement' is one of the most iconic and regularly referenced costumes. How has that dress influenced and affected your career? Honestly, I don't notice so much a difference in the dynamic between working for a male or a female director. It doesn't have a huge impact on me in the sense that what you're trying to achieve for that person is the same thing. The way you throw yourself into your work — and what your creative aims are — are the same.

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