.grizzlybear's Ed Droste shares his guide to Peru, from perpetual golden hour in the Andes to canopy-walking in the Amazon.
Photo: Courtesy of Ed Droste
The next day, I met KT and her production team for lunch at a lovely local favorite called Cantarana. Located in the artsy neighborhood of Barranco, it is walking distance from Miraflores. We sampled a delicious, freshly-prepared ceviche plate and some other tasty traditional dishes. I never imagined I could crave something like ceviche daily. But, given the simple way it is prepared in Peru—raw fish in lime juice plus onion, cilantro and garlic—I found myself ordering it every meal.
With our weak lungs in mind, we slowly made our way up to the gorgeous Saqsaywaman ruins just above the old city center before even checking into our room . I often think about how different areas of the world have different light, like how California light is much different than a sunny day in London. Some lights are similar, such as Berlin to Amsterdam. But, in general, light is quite regional and unique.
But nothing could have prepared us for Machu Picchu. Upon arrival at the sleepy town at the base, our bags were conveniently picked up our hotel porters, so we jumped on a bus to the summit of one of the world’s seven wonders.I must say the Machu Picchu area was so much bigger than I imagined from pictures. There’s honestly no way a picture can do justice to all the light-tipped peaks, grassy valleys, and the endless trails to wander. They have organized it rather nicely.
It is perched just above the Moray ruins because they are exactly what inspired the chef. The restaurant, upon entrance, feels more like a chic agricultural research center than an eatery. With samples of local produce and test jars of fermenting liquids, an employee explained how Incas had used the terraced levels of Moray to mimic the different altitudes and temperatures of Peru, which allowed them to cultivate and test a variety of crops.
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