For more than 400 years, Kannauj artisans have been producing rose attar using the world’s oldest known perfume-making process
the artisanal method uses copper stills fueled by wood and cow dung., a former princeling state governed by the Nawabs of Oudh. Like many smaller Indian cities, Kannauj is wedged somewhere between past and present. Time here doesn’t move on, it simply piles up.
Duck into the narrow lanes of Bara Bazaar, the main market, and Kannauj reverts fully to medieval times. In this labyrinth, longtime shops are crammed with finely cut glass bottles holding attar and, or essential oil, each smelling better than the last. Men sit cross-legged on cushioned floor mats, sniffing vials and dabbing extraordinarily long perfumed cotton swabs behind their ears.
Surrounded by the copper stills and pots of the trade, freshly picked roses are prepared to be made into essential oil at the M.L. Ramnarain Perfumers factory, one of the oldest distilleries in Kannauj.It takes about five to six hours for Tegh Singh’s roses to become attar. Throughout this process, Ram Singh stays on his toes, hopping between the still and the pot, testing the water temperature with his hands and listening to the hiss of steam to intuit whether to feed more wood into the fire.
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