How a dry season led to dry flour and a disastrous batch of croissants (via eaterchicago)
in West Town, noticed that the dough for the latest batch of wholesale croissants was behaving strangely. Usually it was soft and supple, easily wrapped around a block of butter to be folded and rolled multiple times until there were hundreds of alternating layers of butter and dough. In the oven, the water in the butter would evaporate, leaving a flaky, honeycombed interior.
The previous winter had been unusually dry across the plains, from Arizona to North Dakota, where Central sources most of its wheat. The hot and dry conditions made the wheatberries shrivel and store minerals in different ways: Nutrients that should have been going into the endosperm, the part of the wheatberry that’s ground into conventional white flour, went into the bran, which is discarded.
Fukai’s problem is somewhat unique among local bakers because very few sell to the wholesale market and make laminated pastry at the volume that she does. A 4 percent change in a dough’s water composition is far more apparent in a batch of 240 croissants than 24. It’s also far more difficult to adjust the moisture of laminated pastry dough, which requires more precision than other flour-based items.
In the past, Wade would see absorption rates between 61 and 65 percent . Now he’s seeing rates of 56 or 57 percent.
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