An inordinate amount of care given to this coffee at every step of production
To be fair, it’s a very nice cup. Photo: Melissa Hom Every morning, bleary-eyed New Yorkers line up to spend $2, maybe $3 on coffee at bodegas and street carts. Even if people Starbucks, or one of the city’s smaller, sophisticated shops, they’re likely to top out at about $5 for a caffeine fix.
“Caturra was popular in the ’70s and early ’80s,” says Miguel Gómez, an associate professor at Cornell’s School of Applied Economics and Management, who grew up in a Colombian coffee–growing family and has co-authored several studies about the industry. “Then we started having problems with leaf rust and other diseases. Caturra was replaced in the market with varieties that are hardier.”
The view from El Berlin farm, processing the fruit, and the farm's co-owner, Lorena Horta. Courtesy of Devoción. The view from El Berlin farm, processing the fruit, and the farm's co-owner, Lorena Horta. Courtesy of Devoción. Processing To turn the fruit’s seeds into usable coffee, Devoción asked Horta to take a chance on what’s known as the honey process, which involves no actual honey, but does require close attention as beans ferment and dry for days or weeks at a time.
When Dreszer first joined Devoción, about seven years ago, he was tasked with learning about the coffee cultivation firsthand and had an unnerving run-in during lunch with a farmer. “I sat down with five guys in a little garage,” he recalls. “I had no idea who they were.
Around the same time, the lab also brewed the grounds with various techniques — pour-over, automatic drip, siphon, and espresso — to figure out which preparations worked best. Hi-Collar will prepare the Aguadulce with a siphon and Aeropress, but Dreszer recommends pour-over to fully taste the intended flavors.
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