'Dubai is where I can pronounce 'tahini' and 'tabbouleh' like I do at home without the fear of sounding pretentious.'
t—and therefore utterly charming—suggestions, especially compared to the colloquial mishmash of Aramaic-Arabic-English I grew up speaking. “So this is what proper Arabic is supposed to sound like,” I think.
What I cannot say is that I’ve ever been to the Middle East, so the prospect of being in the region sends chills the moment the opportunity arises. My parents fled Iraq during the Saddam Hussein regime—my mom in 1979 and my dad in the mid-’80s, after he was injured during his time in the military. I was born in Bulgaria in 1989; after a brief stint in Russia, we arrived in Canada in 1993 as asylum seekers.
It’s a three-step routine that plays out regularly in my day-to-day life, thanks to a constant feeling of longing and homesickness for a place I’ve never been. That guilt is never stronger than during my time in Dubai, where I’m not only geographically close to Iraq but also surrounded by opulence and rooms literally coated in gold. Dubai features the type of extravagance you want to share with your loved ones, especially those who have lived—or still live—in drastically different conditions.
We visit the usual tourist suspects: the Burj Khalifa, gold and spice souks, The Dubai Mall, Burj Al Arab Jumeirah and a traditional hammam spa. But thanks to Nabil, we also find our way to a low-key shisha bar and the beautiful Arabian Tea House, located in the old Al Fahidi Historical Neighbourhood. It features the type of massive sun-soaked, plant-covered patio that in Toronto would be Instagram bait.
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