Hot Milk Cake Is the Little Black Dress of Cakes

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Hot Milk Cake Is the Little Black Dress of Cakes
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in which bakers attempt the sponge, manically whisking whole eggs over a water bath as if their lives depended on it. Not only are these sponge cakes labor-intensive, they also often requireWith the hot milk sponge, none of this matters. There’s no need to set out your ingredients in advance; instead, you bring milk and butter to a boil. Then you whisk eggs until doubled in volume, slowly pour in the hot milk and butter, and gently fold in your dry ingredients.

Although recipes for hot milk cake date back to the early 1900s, the sponge didn’t become popular until the 1930s. Bakers adored the cake for its ease and versatility and also because it was inexpensive to make. When ingredients like eggs, dairy, and sugar were rationed during World War II, cooks turned to economical desserts likeand hot milk sponge, which allowed them to bake with a lean pantry.

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