It's perfect no matter what time it is.
, perhaps, but my friends and I are nevertheless eating toast and sipping on cups of creamy, full-bodied Hong Kong milk tea. Seated around us in bright orange booths, other hungry, inebriated humans have come for the same thing after a night out: the greasy, comforting delights of thea type of diner-style coffee shop that has been a mainstay of Hong Kong culture since the 1950s.
These establishments are an emblem of the past and a place of nostalgia for Hong Kongers who, like me, often struggle to place themselves in a continuously changing city that’s no longer British but not quite Chinese either. Many of these cafés still have the same ceiling fans, formica tables, and tiled walls of decades past. As I chew slowly, I take in the sound of drunken laughter and Cantonese chatter, grateful that the cha chaan teng exists.
When full-service restaurants were introduced to Hong Kong by the British in the 1930s, they were designated for wealthy colonizers and Chinese merchants. These restaurants were largely inaccessible to Hong Kong locals, who not only couldn’t afford to eat at these places, but were also from even entering them. Even so, those locals—inspired by British afternoon tea culture—sought to create their own spaces and opened establishments calledor “ice rooms.” Bing sutts typically served light snacks and cold refreshments that featured Western ingredients brought to the island by the British. In the 1950s, Hong Kong entered a postwar industrial boom, and workers needed affordable places to eat and rest.
Today many of the dishes on cha chaan menus still feature canned goods, including evaporated or condensed milk, Spam, and corned beef, which hearkens back to a time when fresh milk and meat were difficult to come by. For the British, “tea time was still a national pastime,” notes freelance journalist Alana Dao, “and sweetened condensed milk allowed them to keep many of their traditions and, perhaps unwittingly, pass them on to generations of Chinese.
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