Working in Piet Mondrian's strict vocabulary of primary colors, Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski created a baseline for an Hermes_Paris wardrobe.
If ever there were a season when it would have been easy for Hermès to trot out its heritage full gallop, it would be this one, when everyone from Michael Kors to Balmain’s Olivier Rousteing are feeling horsey, and turning out bourgeois tailoring, blanket coats and capes.
But the house has always set its own pace apart from the whims of seasonal trends. So instead, Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski decided to pare the women’s wear back to a graphic essence. In keeping with the Hermès 2020 theme, “Innovation in the Making,” she presented a “manifest of purity,” as she called it, on a set of striped vertical bars reminiscent of horse jump poles.
Working in Piet Mondrian’s strict vocabulary of primary colors, she created a baseline for an Hermès wardrobe, including more options in non-leather or using minimal-leather . Some looks came in both, well positioning the brand for changing values around consumption, and offering more accessible pieces as it courts customers with new product categories, including its first line of lipsticks bowing March 4.
Of course, there was still some leather, maybe a third of the show. And with this season’s rush of leather dressing on the runways, you could really tell the Hermès difference on a yellow pleated leather skirt and quilted leather puffer jacket. They weren’t just buttah, they were French buttah. And let’s talk about the cool leather pinafores with quilting and leather zip details.
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