Hash is a barbecue tradition practiced almost exclusively in the Palmetto State. Find out the secrets of this South Carolina sensation.
Marvin C. Ross was just 8 years old the first time he watched Willis Spells, his neighbor in Dorchester, South Carolina, make barbecue hash. Relatives and friends showed up to sit outside with Spells as he stirred ground hog’s head meat with something that looked like a boat oar. After a night of simmering and hours of stirring and mixing spices, young Marvin finally tasted what everybody had come to enjoy – and what he now knows is a state culinary invention.
They regularly hold large, ticketed public events where Spells, now 71, and Ross make their hash and visitors from around the country come for cooking demonstrations, tours of the farm and sit-down meals that include hash. “We get a lot of people moving from the North who come and they ask, ‘What is this?’ ’’ Ross said, referring to questions about his hash. “I say, ‘meat gravy.
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