“I wanted to create something like a glitch—that moment when the computer merges everything together.”
Take Charles Baudelaire, the romantic and doomed 19th century author of “Les Fleurs du Mal,” a collection of poetry so scandalously decadent it was banned in his native France until 1949. Transport him to Florence’s Villa Palmieri, a palatial abode surrounded by classical English, French and Italian gardens once visited by Queen Victoria, with its own steamy history stretching back to the late 14th century as the dream setting for the erotic tales of “The Decameron.
For her first menswear show last night as this season’s Pitti Uomo Special Guest Designer, Keller took this clash of old world romanticism and cutting-edge technical prowess—patched tapestry coats embroidered with mirror-like paillette cut beads, kayak anoraks in velvet nylon, three-button jackets in iridescent cottons—and let it fly. “I wanted a fusion between the old world and the incredibly modern, to create something like a glitch,” says Keller.
Keller lived and worked in Florence for seven years designing for Ralph Lauren and Gucci, so when Pitti called to propose doing a show here, the time and place seemed right to launch her standalone mens collection. “ I know the feeling Pitti Uomo has. There’s this sort of sartorial presence on the streets here. And I love the idea of showing in a spectacular setting like a villa.
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