No one in Los Angeles has approached mariscos with quite the same merging of soul and finesse like Gilberto Cetina.
Jenee Kim’s Koreatown restaurant Park’s BBQ is an essential part of the flavors of Los Angeles — showing a generation of diners that Korean food is a thriving, evolving cuisine.Gilberto Cetina opened Holbox — his colorful, stylishly angled marisqueria near the entrance of the Mercado la Paloma in Historic South-Central — early in 2017.
Some of Cetina’s early instincts for experimentation came while developing relationships with top-tier seafood suppliers. He was refining his style in real time and soon landed on some scene-stealers. His kanpachi ceviche, bracing with lime and garnished with dots and scribbles of avocado puree, came draped with tongues of Santa Barbara sea urchin.
Cetina had similar feelings about the location. He’s looked at spaces to potentially move Holbox; the current situation doesn’t allow for an alcohol permit. Ultimately, he decided to stay. “This is where this food came from,” he said recently. “I’ve never worked for another chef, other than my dad. Sorry, Dad. I’ve never clocked in to another kitchen, I never went to culinary school. The food that we’re serving, it was born here at the Mercado.
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