For ultimate crunch and ultimate flavor.
Frying shrimp in their shells protects the meat from overcooking, boosts flavor, and produces an extra-crunchy coating.
A blend of flour, cornstarch, and baking powder is used for a light, crispy dredge that doesn't mask the flavor and texture of the seafood.Fritto misto di mare is classic coastal Italian fare, served at seaside restaurants all over the peninsula. It’s a dish that embodies the “don’t mess with a good thing” approach that Italian cuisine is famous for: locally caught seafood is lightly floured, fried, and served with just a squeeze of lemon.
Sourcing the right seafood is arguably the hardest part of this recipe. There are no set rules for what must be included, but the dish is meant to evoke the bounty hauled in by small Italian fishing boats known as paranze, which usually includes a mixture of crustaceans like shrimp, cephalopods like calamari and cuttlefish, and small fin fish like anchovies.
The dredge for a frittura di paranza is simple. Traditionally, the seafood is tossed in semola rimacinata or all-purpose flour until just coated and then fried. It's much lighter than the dredge used for, which needs to be able to stand up to being dunked and dipped in tomato sauce.
Frying the seafood in batches at a relatively high temperature ensures that it all cook quickly and evenly. During testing I found that the shell-on shrimp maintained crispness longest after frying, followed by squid. The higher moisture content of smelt causes them to lose their crunchy exterior quickest, so I fry them last while holding the fried shrimp and calamari in a warm oven.
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