When two become one.
Two distinct experiences on the same chilly day a few months back connected the dots. First, some friends and I took a drive up to Albany, where we ate rich, steaming bowls of Taiwanese-style beef noodle soup at the aptly named. To me, this category of noodle soups represents Peak Soup, as good as it gets: A clear, complex broth loaded with aromatics; chewy, slurpable noodles; chunks of tender meat, and a bit of veg for textural contrast.
Later that same afternoon, I found myself at a pretty unremarkable new bar with those same friends, not hungry at all but studying the menu nonetheless. Nestled in among the pub grub offerings was French onion soup. I’ve never really understood why people are so gaga for French onion soup. Don’t get me wrong: I admire the simple grandeur of a soup in which piles of sweet, slow-simmered onions provide the lion’s share of the flavor.
The whole thing came together a few days later. I started by making a pared-down version of a broth for Taiwanese beef noodle soup, simmering hunks of short rib with scallion whites, ginger, garlic, and soy sauce along with a host of bright spices until the meat was just yielding and the liquid was incredibly savory. While that was cooking, I sizzled a Dutch oven full of sliced onions until I was left with a puddle of golden allium goodness.
As we slurped and sipped, I couldn’t help feeling like I was getting away with something, having my cake and eating it too: taking my favorite part of a dish I could take or leave and shoehorning it into one I adore with a passion. The fact that this unexpected portmanteau also managed to fill our bellies, and produce enough leftovers to feed us for many chilly nights to come, made it all the more enjoyable. And that carries its own special kind of satisfaction.
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