Perfume makers are fiercely lobbying at EU governmental levels to protect their palette of ingredients.
“Can you imagine fragrances without citrus, without bergamot, without jasmine, without rose? It’s impossible,” the executive said. “So I call on everybody to mobilize with their trade associations, with the industry associations in every country. We have to defend this very beautiful creative art of perfume.”
It’s an industry at risk. Most recently, the Council of the European Union debated a proposal to always override safety data on natural ingredients — referred to as substances of more than one constituent, or MOCS — due to the classification of a single ingredient above the threshold of 0.1 to 3 percent.
“The current approach already achieves the highest standards of consumer safety and any changes to chemicals legislation have cascading effects on consumer products, such as cosmetics,” he continued. The European Green Deal, under which most of the pending fragrance-related proposals fall, has as its umbrella aim to make Europe the first climate-neutral continent. Among its subgoals is to have the continent be carbon-neutral by 2050, its economic growth decoupled from resource use and no person or place left behind.
The Registration, Evaluation, Authorization and Restriction of Chemicals, or REACH, governing regulation for the management of chemicals in Europe that came into effect in 2007 is also impacting fragrance development. Its first mandate is to ensure that every chemical circulating on the continent is monitored.
Already some fragrance ingredients have been banned, such as butylphenyl methylpropional, or lilial, which gives the essence of lilies. On March 1, 2022, it was forbidden to be used in personal care products in the EU, after the Commission classified it as a “reprotoxic” — a chemical that negatively affects fertility and fetal development.
Apart from the Green Deal is the subject of fragrance-related allergens. The number of those, which need to be labeled whenever leaving factories, has swelled from 26 in 2003 to an expected 81 today.
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