For Peter Do, designing clothes is like making pho. The fashion industry’s rising star reflects on staging his first ever NYFW show with a collection dedicated to Asian mums:
New York Fashion Week
this season, and a cipher for the city’s shifting guard of designers. Partly inspired by the concise wardrobe of his hardworking grandmothers and aunts – who often wore tunics over trousers for work and leisure, as “there wasn’t really a luxury of dressing to express yourself” – and partly in service of “satisfying women’s needs with function and practicality”, Peter revisited his first collections; stripping back silhouettes with an obsessional and self critical attention to detail.
“We looked back to where we started when we had no customers, no press, no money. It was just us in an empty room making things that we love. It all started from there.”– long, open-sided tunics worn over generously cut trousers – and gossamer silk shirting with watercolour floral motifs; sensual, cut-out knits you could sink into and fluid satin trenches. Also, there were feather-light chiffon versions of the four- piece suit that Peter made his name with four years ago.
“There were a lot of emotions going on, because my grandmother just passed away that week from Covid, and I was thinking about my dad who couldn’t be there at the show,” Peter says. Looking back at his earlier collections tapped into that nostalgia. “We looked back to where we started, how we were designing things before we were worrying about sales when we had no customers, no press, no money,” he reflects. “It was just us, an empty room, making things that we love. It all started from there.
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