The L.A. Times covers Mexican food better than anyone — and we've done so for over 137 years
In 2019, Los Angeles’ bowls runneth over with birria, the Mexican confederation of recipes involving meat rubbed, roasted or slowly stewed in an alloy of chilies, herbs and spices.This paper played a big part in raising the national profile of Elena Zelayeta, a blind restaurateur from San Francisco who became America’s first Mexican celebrity chef.
“Border Line,” her column, debuted at a crossroads for Mexican cuisine in the United States. Until then, L.A. had largely lagged behind San Antonio, Dallas, San Francisco and even Chicago in setting Mexican food trends that the rest of the country would soon follow. But an influx of immigrants to Southern California was changing the food landscape. Hard-shell tacos fell out of favor, replaced by those made with soft corn tortillas.
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