The dishes served at black tables on the first day of the new year — rooted in a tradition of resilience — fill bellies and souls.
before the Lunar New Year. But for the millions of African Americans spread across the country, the practice of cooking good luck black-eyed peas and prosperity greens is rooted in resiliency and triumph.
As waves of black people migrated from the Deep South, they packed up their traditions and brought them along. Valicia Logan, 59, had already put a mix of Chinese turnips, mustard and collard greens in a slow cooker. She placed on the conveyor belt a bag of dry black-eyed peas, the star of a family dish that she had watched her relatives create in Hayti, Mo.In a different checkout line, Chris Gardener, 43, held a hand-basket by his side filled with chitlins and hog maws, or pork stomach.
James, the professor, said some black families cook hearty pots of gumbo. Those people normally trace their roots to Louisiana or Texas.“You almost can tell where people are from by what traditions they observe,” James explained as beads of sweat glistened on her forehead Tuesday.
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