“Even if there’s some excitement and sexiness, I think we have to dress for thinking,” Miuccia Prada told W following her stunning fall 2023 presentation.
If you arrived early enough to the Miu Miu fall 2023 show, there was time to study the videos by South Korean artist Geumhyung Jeong screened on a loop around the set. Some featured disembodied hands touching garments—they slowly slid into the fly of trousers or the cuffs of a shirt, fingering pleats in a way that was so careful and intimate it was a bit uncomfortable.
Miuccia Prada applied the same idea to her collection, which was great. “It’s about looking at bodies and how clothes work on bodies,” she said after the show. “You can do so much just with the body and the clothes. It sounds like a banality.” Prada is a master of taking the banal and tweaking your perception of it through context and proportion.
This time around, Prada set her sights on some classically feminine tropes. There were bespectacled, bookish good girls in buttoned-up cardigans and flimsy polka-dot pencil skirts. Busy, modern tomboys wore mannishly tailored outerwear over hoodies, leggings, sneakers or monk strap brogues. Big, leather cross-body messenger bags and little camera bags dangling with keys suggested these women—and a few men—were on the go, in a rush.
This collection wasn’t made for borrowing, though. It was made for buying. Prada knows how to whip up a show that’s slightly askew, lest anyone sniff that it’s “commercial.” The weird little affectations, like a shock of messy hair and awkward spangled panties paired with turtlenecks, turn the clothes on their head and keep it interesting. But even viewed upside down, it was plain to see all the impeccable merch: the coats, the shoes, the bags, the eyewear.
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