Tamar Adler takes a New York City tour of the best of the best, and tries her hand at filling a few of her own.
If you want dumplings to seem easy, learn to make them in Misi’s glass-walled dough room, with its long wooden tables, two several-thousand-dollar Emiliomiti pasta machines, and a team of all-day pasta-makers. Even easier, Robbins’s fresh pasta dough has only two ingredients: egg yolks and fine-milled flour. There isn’t even salt.
After demonstrating all this, Kaplan handed me a pastry bag filled with a combination of sheep’s and cow’s ricottas, whipped to a soft, thick cream with a lot of salt , and showed me how to squeeze blobs several centimeters apart on the pasta sheets. Kaplan had an ingenious strategy for folding half the dough into pleats, then shaking it out like freshly ironed bed linen over the ricotta. It worked beautifully, but the instant I left the restaurant I forgot how he’d done it.
Occhi-making was surprisingly achievable at home. Except that at Misi, the occhi are made twice a day, for lunch and dinner, and can stand only a few hours before their wet filling dampens their dough. Kaplan would not concede that in a home kitchen they could be frozen, or even sit overnight in the fridge. I defied his advice and saved half the freshly made occhi. The following day their filling seeped through the dough and wept out into the water and butter in the pan.
I hoped Chinese dumplings would prove more resilient. Deciding which to imitate posed a challenge. I’ve had more excellent jiaozi than I have ravioli.
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