Fendi RTW Spring 2020

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Fendi RTW Spring 2020
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For her first solo ready-to-wear collection for Fendi, Silvia Venturini Fendi sought to capture the emotion of a bright summer day.

Let the sun shine — and set — on a beautiful summer day. If Silvia Venturini Fendi felt any butterflies before presenting her first solo ready-to-wear effort for Fendi after the death of Karl Lagerfeld, she gave no indication backstage before the show. Instead, Venturini Fendi radiated calm while talking emotion, specifically that was triggered by a summer day. “The summer and the sunny days put me in such a different mood, more open to experiences, and I feel more freedom,” she said.

As for how that translates into clothes, Venturini Fendi noted “the emotion of simple things, of real clothes and simple materials that remind me of summer.” It made for an appealing collection packed — really packed — with clothes. If summer means feeling free for the designer, it also means taking an items approach to getting dressed.

As befit her ode to summer, Venturini Fendi worked a colorful palette from barely there pastels to the deep golden hues of the sunset. She also favored fanciful prints, which often looked great, but in aggregate, turned problematic. Up close, there’s no mistaking Fendi’s materials for anything but widely accessible. Ebullient prints are a mainstay of the contemporary market, and here, their abundance dampened the collection’s luxe factor.Not so the furs.

Apart from the obvious controversy inherent in showing fur, the visual takeaway was of lighthearted optimism. As the finale track advised, “Let the sun shine.” Indeed.

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