Fashion mourns Katie Gallagher, the downtown designer known for the dark romance of her aesthetic
Fiercely independent and sure of her vision, Gallagher followed her own path in life and in fashion. She was a hands-on artisan who never relied on surface effects for impact; her interest was in the “bones” of a garment. “She understood construction, which is very difficult, and blended in right away because she understood how we cut and was passionate about it,” remembered Threeasfour’s Gabi Asfour, for whom Gallagher interned in 2008.
. She was as liberal with her use of bows and Swiss dots as with transparency and her preference for black. “Gothic” and “witchy” were some of the adjectives applied to her designs, but Saveliev had another take on that. “Katie wasn’t exactly a goth kid, but she was definitely interested in the macabre and the beauty of decay,” he said. “Basically she wanted to play with the minor keynotes of life and just tried to beautify, to lighten the mood.
Having attracted the attention of the stylist Nicola Formichetti and the fashion collector Daphne Guinness while she was still at school, Gallagher established a base in Chinatown in 2009 and immediately hit the show circuit. It was at a time when it seemed possible to build something from the ground up. “It was always a high stakes, high stress thing.
“The world was not yet fully digital,” noted Saveliev, and “a huge part of the collective story is that people still really wanted to make cool stuff. I think that what it came down to is, ‘Wow, if I work hard enough, I can actually create this little world.’ ” But, of course, the industry’s obsession with newness and change, means that its ecosystem is always in flux, as new “planets” push others out of the way.
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