Take a look at Fashion East's fall 2022 collection:
At Fashion East—the umbrella showcase founded by Lulu Kennedy—it was refreshing to see a generation of emerging designers more focused on technique than styling. Their methods may be under construction, but at least they’re approaching fashion from a dressmaking perspective rather than a purely theatrical one. Take Jawara Alleyne, who presented his first runway show at Fashion East after last season’s static presentation.
“I’m obsessed with presenting something that feels like it has a life,” Alleyne said. “Gravity, the way fabrics hang, the way garments age…” His obsession made for a raw, slashed-up sensibility, which did sometimes become a bit too repurposed; a little too far-reaching and messy. But Rome wasn’t built in a day. Come his second turn on the Fashion East runway, maybe Alleyne will already have evolved his technique to a new stage.
The American designer based his research on memories of childhood ski trips to Canada where his parents “would have Champagne in a jacuzzi on a mountain slope,” fashioning an entirely impossible winter look that didn’t get dull. “A hoe never gets cold,” he quipped, stressing how he wants his customer to feel super sexy. “It’s that feeling when you’re on the tube and everyone is staring at you, but you know it’s because you look so good,” Lo said.
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