Researching the story of a 1940s rescue operation often brought costume designer Justine Seymour to tears.
Desperate times have a way of pressuring innovation to the surface, a fact made clear in the newa historical drama about how prominent European Jewish and anti-Nazi artists and intellectuals creatively sought escape with the help of a private American relief organization, the Emergency Rescue Committee.
British costume designer Justine Seymour had almost overwhelming amounts of material to help her illuminate the characters and their fates. Some of the clothes show a clear lineage to military uniforms and the dreamlike Surrealist art prominent in the period. More influence came from right here in L.A.“Generally speaking, at that time, people were looking toward Hollywood for inspiration. It was the Golden Age of American cinema, and that was influencing American fashion,” Seymour said.
“If I’m to be honest, I do actually weep when I’m doing my research. It’s very sad, the things I have to research,” said Seymour, speaking from Berlin, where she is often based. Fry detailed his experiences and wardrobe in books. “He actually had a list of what was in his suitcase,” Seymour said. “That was like gold for me. He was a Brooks Brothers man. I wanted to lean into the fact that he was a very honorable man and his wardrobe didn’t stray.”
For Gold, the designer employed Schiaparelli signatures such as cartoonish appliques, outlandish accessories, vivid prints and even the iconic upside-down shoe hat, this time remade in papier-mâché by Marseille milliners. Seymour also made a “faux fur” coat from pressed velvet to honor Jacobs’ refusal to wear real fur.“There is no way an heiress of that time didn’t have a mink coat,” Seymour said.
“I used Josephine Baker, because she was fabulous and amazing and a spy. She was so fabulous and ‘out there,’ so who would ever think she was ever doing anything untoward?”
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