Fancy Chinese food is here to stay — and it's about time

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Fancy Chinese food is here to stay — and it's about time
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Asian American chefs in California today are challenging long-standing ideas about how the foods they grew up eating should look and taste — and how they should be valued.

A selection of Chinese-inspired dishes at Nightshade, chef Mei Lin's new Arts District restaurant.

The first thing that comes to mind is tackling the perception that Chinese food is cheaper. We’re creating the stepping stone for ourselves.It’s not necessarily about creating Chinese restaurants with a more Western focus, but about pushing ambitions for the future of the cuisine.

“The dishes that I felt really proud of or that I really enjoyed cooking had some reference point to my upbringing, or the story of how Asian Americans fit into the local culture,” he said. “So it wasn’t so much of a conscious pivot — I think it was a slow change, or a slow evolution, into thinking more about that.

Last month, he added a swanky cocktail bar in the former banquet space above Mister Jiu’s called Moongate Lounge, where Chinese-inspired cocktails are served with snacks such as smoked oysterBetter ingredients, top-notch service, and food and drinks crafted by classically trained chefs come at a price, though. It’s a touchy subject for any chef trying to pay a fair wage and source responsibly, but it’s a particularly sore spot for Asian American chefs.

You’re not complaining about the price of the agnolotti that was last night’s roast that’s ground up. A leftover dumpling that’s basically served back to you.“When people say, ‘Why is this so expensive?’ I’d like if they thought about that for Italian food or French food,” he said. “The sophistication of Chinese food is just as high.

“We get customers who are saying, ‘I can’t believe we’re paying $95 for this tiny piece of fish,’” he said. “First of all I’m like, ‘It’s not tiny’ and second of all it’s a very expensive fish we’re getting every single day.”Benu, which costs $310 per person and is fully booked nearly every night, is one of the few restaurants to successfully break into the upper stratosphere .

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