They’re exactly as weird as you remember.
digs into all the ways the electric knife was advertised for Dad, to make him feel useful come suppertime. Lupton’s essay is a model of what a subtle job a grown-up writer can do with a subject rife with subterranean anxieties about, uh, certain personal insufficiencies, which unfortunately is not the article you’re reading right now., came with two attachments: one for meat and one for bread, both of which click into a stand that sits on the counter.
But bread is a sideshow, really. The electric knife, Lupton writes, was a ceremonial object, which found its zenith of popularity in the 1960s and 70s. It was brought out at supper for Dad to carve the roast with—to become, per one advertisement, “a Michelangelo at mealtime.” Though it must be said: Michelangelo also did some painting, okay? He didn’t just show up at the unveiling of the Sistine Chapel and throw some varnish on the ceiling.
The act of the man cutting the roast gestures back to a whole history of ceremonial feasts in which the labor of hunting and cooking was divided by gender, not unlike many of today’s backyard barbecues, where men man the grill and, having grilled, dramatize their suburban conquest by carving the beast there in the open, for all to see. In Europe in the early modern period, this was a spectacle indeed.
In the modern era, electric knives do enjoy a chorus of enthusiastic recommenders, at least if you read food media:
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