A 13-seat tasting-menu spot in Spring Branch is included on the national magazine’s elite list.
Heirloom maiz kernels featuring cónico azul from Estado de Mexico, cónico rosa from Tlaxcala, bolita amarillo from oaxaca and chalqueño blanco from michoacán at Tatemó.Esquire described the 33-year-old Chavez as a “maize obsessive,” according to Joshua David Stein, a veteran food writer and former restaurant critic, who visited months ago.
“Everything at Tatemó is meant to keep the focus on the Chavezes’ beloved corn,” wrote Stein, who was one of four writers and editors who worked on the magazine’s annual list. While Chavez said he knew Stein dined at Tatemó, he wasn’t aware that the restaurant was in the running as one of the country’s leading new restaurants. He was sipping a block cortado at Blended around 8 a.m. today when chef Ana Castro of Lengua Madre sent a message to congratulate him.
“We’re very grateful to be in Houston’s dining scene,” said Chavez. “We take it with grace. We don’t think we’re better than anybody. Hopefully this helps the next generation inspire them.” Born in Mexico City, Chavez has cooked in Houston at “very structured places” like the River Oaks Country Club. He left the Bayou City and spent several years cooking in Seattle at the Thompson Hotel, where he met his partner Maul before they moved to Houston.
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