Alteños give Evo Morales little credit for their prosperity. Many are sceptical about his run for re-election
over La Paz, Bolivia’s administrative capital, like the blade of a guillotine. In 1781 Tupac Katari, an indigenous leader, laid siege to Spanish La Paz 500 metres below. In the early 2000s protests byforced out of office two Bolivian presidents: Gonzalo Sánchez de Lozada, who sought to export Bolivia’s gas through Chile, a rival, and Carlos Mesa, his successor, who resisted their demands to nationalise gas reserves.
In the “gas war” of 2003 rebels on the clifftop blocked roads that connect La Paz to much of the rest of Bolivia. Mr Sánchez de Lozada sent in the army. After nearly 60 people were killed, he fled the country. The insurrection helps define the city today. Roger Chambi, an Aymara activist, points out to a visitor the building housing Radio San Gabriel, where insurgent leaders held a hunger strike. El Alto’s defiant slogan—“On its feet, never its knees”—appears everywhere.
Outsiders often see El Alto as a reflection of their biases. Leftists celebrate the communal features of its economy. They include: help from neighbours for building or business, which the beneficiary is expected to reciprocate. The fiestas are a way of giving food and drink to the poor. Anarchists admire El Alto’s self-regulation, liberals its vigorous capitalism. The city seems to combine all these.
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