Once a dominant form of barbecue in California, the drep pit beef has almost disappeared in the state
That effort and production costs money and takes time, two resources that are in increasingly short supply in rural America as jobs and housing keep shifting toward cities and suburbs. There are simply fewer people willing to carry on the older traditions of deep pit beef, to say nothing of the logistical hurdles of successfully convincing public officials that it’s safe to cook meat in a dirt pit.
The increasing bifurcation of America along land and population lines is nothing new, but there is a particular resonance now as political tensions boil, Western states struggle to supply water to all those who deserve it, and the pandemic leads to a housing crunch across the nation, especially in small towns. I think of this two-sided America often myself, as a former farm kid raised to work in a dairy barn.
In that way, I’m heartened to see that there is still a home for deep pit beef in California, even if it’s almost never cooked in its original format anymore. The fact that it still endures on menus across Bakersfield, the Sierra foothill communities, and all across the smaller corners of California is enough for me.
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