Dinner and a séance: The wacky, actually-delicious return of theme restaurants.
Sixteen of us are sitting in a circle around a giant mahogany table waiting for our dinner reservation. We’ve each been escorted through a maze of dark, shadowy hallways to a room bathed in crimson light. “Are you staying for the séance tonight?” a man standing in the corner of the room asks, grinning mischievously. Judging from everyone’s blank expressions, nobody got the memo about a séance. We were warned that dinner would involve imbibing high-ABV spirits.
We’ve all come to dine at 20,000 Leagues Under the Sea. The quixotic fine-dining restaurant, inside the Lost Spirits Distillery in Las Vegas, features a carefully orchestrated 16-course tasting menu. The dishes are inspired by each chapter of Jules Verne’s 1870 adventure novel of the same name, which chronicles the macabre underwater adventures of Captain Nemo and his unwitting prisoners aboard a handcrafted submarine.
It’s hard to pinpoint exactly what caused the decline of theme restaurants in the early aughts. The novelty of celebrity-driven concepts like Planet Hollywood and Hard Rock Cafe, that capitalized on the public’s fixation with celebrity culture, fizzled as social media opened a more intimate, real-time window into celebrities’ lives. The kitchens in these restaurants also produced largely mediocre food and lacked the talent and creativity to evolve with changing appetites.
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