Womenswear brands, such as Simone Rocha and Molly Goddard, are experimenting with menswear and vice versa.
n inside the cavernous marble-swathed halls of the Old Bailey, the United Kingdom’s Central Criminal Court. The verdict on an offering that showcased her most comprehensive expansion into menswear? Unanimously positive. Rocha’s menswear has been evolving for some time, but the designer explained to’s Alice Newbold that she has been was waiting for it to “really have its own identity and sit proudly alongside the women’s”.
This translated to pieces which anchored Rocha’s ethereal, deftly delicate designs with a more utilitarian grounding: button-down pinstripe trousers, nylon tracksuit bottoms with punky zips, bomber jackets exploding with tulle ruffles, silk brocade trench coats and ruched shirting., a profusion of neon frills and bumble-bee stripes, story-book prints and polka dots, featured relaxed menswear, like Wall Street tailoring, colourful Nordic knits and ruffled jackets.
“We wanted to express an unambiguous strength, without relinquishing femininity,” founders Stefan Cooke and Jake Burt told’s Alex Kessler before the show. Their effusive offering featured cheeky ruffled miniskirts, sweeping multi-seam denim and T-shirts emblazoned with taffeta bows, inspired by a detail on a Victorian jacket.
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